Well..... the frost came and did its worst to the gardens a little earlier than usual this year. I got in ahead of times and salvaged what I could from the chile and what was left of the tomato beds. Not as much as I hoped for but still there is quite a stock to put through the smoker over the next few days!!
I had been planning to do a Hot Smoked Salmon this weekend, but lack of salmon at the fishshop and the chile pile has meant that it had to be put on hold. Hopefully just until next weekend!
Not all the chiles will be smoked though. The longer thinner ones ( De Arbol ) ones will get strung as much as decorations as edibles. De Arbols are very nice earthy/spicy flavoured chiles that are a great standard for the kitchen. I always grow enough for drying and powders as well as stringing!
There were a few ripe but green chiles here and there..mostly nagas and chocolate habaneros. These are good smoked too, but some will end up in the freezer for curries...most Naga'd restaurant curries in the UK use green rather than red pods.
Now that the garden is mostly finished for the year...its time for a bit of labour yet...ideal for warming the chilled bones this morning, the annual ritual of tearing out dead plants, shredding and making the compost heap very happy!
Friday, October 16, 2009
Spicy Peking Duck Risotto
One last Duck recipe using the leftovers from the Peking Duck. Ok so Risotto isn't Chinese but I love Risotto and there were some leftovers to use up, so I came up with this recipe.
Ingredients
1 Tbsp (15 ml) Dried Shrimp / Crevettes sechées
25 g Mix of Dried Shitake and Black Mushrooms/ Mélange des champignons seches, Shitake et Noir
2 litres Spicy Duck Stock
1 Onion / Oignon
2 Cloves Garlic/ Gousse d'Ail
½ Red Pepper /Poivron Rouge
1 Fresh Chile / Piment 1 tsp (5 ml) Coriander Powder / Coriandre Moulu
1 tsp (5 ml) Cumin Powder / Cumin Moulu
1 Tbsp (15 ml) Olive Oil / Huile d'Olive
1 tsp (5 ml) Sesame Oil / Huile de Sesame
250 g Arborio Rice / Riz Arborio1 Tbsp (15 ml) Fish Sauce (Nam Pla) / Sauce Poisson (Nam Pla)
1 Tbsp (15 ml) Soy Sauce / Sauce Soja
1 Tbsp (15 ml) Hoisin Sauce / Sauce d'huitres
100g Duck meat and skin from Peking Duck / Restes du Canard Peking Duck
2 Spring Onions / Oignons Tige
Method
Take the dried shrimps and mushrooms, place in a bowl, cover with warm waterand leave to soak.
Heat the stock in a large pot until simmering gently, turn down heat but keep it simmering.
Whilst the stock is heating chop and fry the onion, garlic, red pepper, chile, coriander and cumin in the mix of olive and sesame oils until nicely softened.
Remove from pan, leaving as much oil as possible in the pan...you can pour some back off, if there is too much with the veggies. Puree the spicy veg and reserve for later.
In the remaining oil fry the rice for a couple of mins, stirring constantly to avoid sticking. Once the rice is nicely coated with oil, add a couple of Tbsps of the stock, along with the fish, hoisin and soy sauces and stir well. As the liquid disappears start to add a ladle of stock at a time to the pan, stir regularly and ensure that you add more liquid as the rice gets dry. You want to keep the rice at a good simmer and keep adding liquid until the rice is cooked (I like it a bit al dente...about 16 - 18 mins for Arborio but it depends a lot on the rice used).
Once the rice is just about cooked to your liking, add the puree and soaked shrimp and mushrooms along with the liquid they were soaked in. Stir in over the heat until most of the liquor has gone, then remove from heat and cover the pan.
Heat a good 5 mm of oil in a frying pan or wok, quickly fry the chopped duck meat and skin at high temperature for one to two mins.
Serve the risotto with pieces of duck meat over the top accompanied by thin slices of spring onion.
Ingredients
1 Tbsp (15 ml) Dried Shrimp / Crevettes sechées
25 g Mix of Dried Shitake and Black Mushrooms/ Mélange des champignons seches, Shitake et Noir
2 litres Spicy Duck Stock
1 Onion / Oignon
2 Cloves Garlic/ Gousse d'Ail
½ Red Pepper /Poivron Rouge
1 Fresh Chile / Piment 1 tsp (5 ml) Coriander Powder / Coriandre Moulu
1 tsp (5 ml) Cumin Powder / Cumin Moulu
1 Tbsp (15 ml) Olive Oil / Huile d'Olive
1 tsp (5 ml) Sesame Oil / Huile de Sesame
250 g Arborio Rice / Riz Arborio1 Tbsp (15 ml) Fish Sauce (Nam Pla) / Sauce Poisson (Nam Pla)
1 Tbsp (15 ml) Soy Sauce / Sauce Soja
1 Tbsp (15 ml) Hoisin Sauce / Sauce d'huitres
100g Duck meat and skin from Peking Duck / Restes du Canard Peking Duck
2 Spring Onions / Oignons Tige
Method
Take the dried shrimps and mushrooms, place in a bowl, cover with warm waterand leave to soak.
Heat the stock in a large pot until simmering gently, turn down heat but keep it simmering.
Whilst the stock is heating chop and fry the onion, garlic, red pepper, chile, coriander and cumin in the mix of olive and sesame oils until nicely softened.
Remove from pan, leaving as much oil as possible in the pan...you can pour some back off, if there is too much with the veggies. Puree the spicy veg and reserve for later.
In the remaining oil fry the rice for a couple of mins, stirring constantly to avoid sticking. Once the rice is nicely coated with oil, add a couple of Tbsps of the stock, along with the fish, hoisin and soy sauces and stir well. As the liquid disappears start to add a ladle of stock at a time to the pan, stir regularly and ensure that you add more liquid as the rice gets dry. You want to keep the rice at a good simmer and keep adding liquid until the rice is cooked (I like it a bit al dente...about 16 - 18 mins for Arborio but it depends a lot on the rice used).
Once the rice is just about cooked to your liking, add the puree and soaked shrimp and mushrooms along with the liquid they were soaked in. Stir in over the heat until most of the liquor has gone, then remove from heat and cover the pan.
Heat a good 5 mm of oil in a frying pan or wok, quickly fry the chopped duck meat and skin at high temperature for one to two mins.
Serve the risotto with pieces of duck meat over the top accompanied by thin slices of spring onion.
Monday, October 12, 2009
Spicy Duck Stock
Faced with all my leftovers from my Peking Duck post, I thought what would be nicer than making up a batch of Spicy Duck Stock. I had reserved the organs and bits around the neck cut out during the preparation of the Peking Duck, so those and the carcass, stripped of any really useful meat, got chucked with a few extra ingredients into the stock pan.
Homemade stocks always add a little extra something to soup and sauces. Stocks are really easy to make and freeze well, so there is no rush to use it all up quick. This spicy version can be used as a base stock for many asian style soups and sauces. I like using it for cooking rice....sort of asian style risottos, if you will allow me the liberty....
Ingredients......makes 2 litres
5 litres Water / D'eau
Carcass and Offal of 2kg Duck / Carcass et Abats d'un canard
1 Onion / Oignon
1 Shallot / Eschalote
1 Small Red Pepper / Petit Poivron Rouge
Handful Fresh Parsely / Poignée du Persil
Handful Fresh Basil / Poignée du Basilic
2 Tbsp Coriander Seed / Coriandre
1 Tbsp Cumin / Cumin
1 Tbsp Fresh Galangal / Galangal
1 Tbsp Fresh Turmeric / Curcuma
2 Fresh Chiles / Piments
1 tsp Tamarind Paste / Pate de Tamarind
1 tsp Salt / Sel
1 tsp Pepper / Poivre
Nice n easy does it...rough chop anything big and add all to stockpot. Bring to the boil, then simmer covered for 2 hrs then remove lid and reduce down to 2 litres. Skim the stock from time to time. Strain and crush/squeeze the dry (well soggy really) matter to get out as much juice as possible.
Leave to cool and store in fridge or freeze for later use.
Homemade stocks always add a little extra something to soup and sauces. Stocks are really easy to make and freeze well, so there is no rush to use it all up quick. This spicy version can be used as a base stock for many asian style soups and sauces. I like using it for cooking rice....sort of asian style risottos, if you will allow me the liberty....
Ingredients......makes 2 litres
5 litres Water / D'eau
Carcass and Offal of 2kg Duck / Carcass et Abats d'un canard
1 Onion / Oignon
1 Shallot / Eschalote
1 Small Red Pepper / Petit Poivron Rouge
Handful Fresh Parsely / Poignée du Persil
Handful Fresh Basil / Poignée du Basilic
2 Tbsp Coriander Seed / Coriandre
1 Tbsp Cumin / Cumin
1 Tbsp Fresh Galangal / Galangal
1 Tbsp Fresh Turmeric / Curcuma
2 Fresh Chiles / Piments
1 tsp Tamarind Paste / Pate de Tamarind
1 tsp Salt / Sel
1 tsp Pepper / Poivre
Nice n easy does it...rough chop anything big and add all to stockpot. Bring to the boil, then simmer covered for 2 hrs then remove lid and reduce down to 2 litres. Skim the stock from time to time. Strain and crush/squeeze the dry (well soggy really) matter to get out as much juice as possible.
Leave to cool and store in fridge or freeze for later use.
Tuesday, October 6, 2009
Peking Duck / Canard Laqué
As I had been planning smoking duck breasts this weekend, then realised that it coincided with Flo's friend visiting I had to come up with something to feed her Saturday night. So I decided that as there would be smoke and duck already in the air I would give Peking / Crispy Duck a go too.
If anyone else fancies having a go, you will need a duck, some runny honey, sesame seed oil, soy sauce, ginger and a little sherry, unless you happen to have some shao hsing lurking in the store cupboard...
Ingredients
1 x 2 kg Duck / Canard
50 ml Sherry / Vin de Xérès (in France you may have trouble finding this, substitute white port or dry Madera)
1 Tbsp (15 ml) Honey / Miel (the more liquid sort)
1 Tbsp (15 ml) Soy sauce / Sauce Soja
1 Tbsp (15 ml) Sesame Seed Oil / Huile de Sesame
2 tsp (10 ml) Ginger (Powdered) / Gingembre Moulu
1 tsp (5 ml) Pepper / Poivre
1 half tsp (2.5 ml) Chile Powder / Poudre de Piment
For Serving
Hoisin sauce / Sauce Hoisin
Chinese Pancakes / Crepes Chinoises (maybe i should try making these myself too.....hmmmmm......shall have to see)
Spring Onions / Oignon en tige
Preparation
First of all clean the bird and remove any excessive fat and skin from the tail and neck areas. Reserve inards to use later along with the bones for a tasty Duck Soup. Carefully go over the skin and remove any pin feathers n bits that the butcher may have ignored/overseen.
Now take the neck end of the carcass and cut around the neck, then through where it meets the backbone. You should then be able to remove the neck portion entirely..it may require a little pulling. You will end up with a carcass that is open at both ends. This will allow air and more importantly smoke to flow freely through the body cavity of the bird later.
Bring to the boil 5 litres of water. Scold the entire surface of the bird, until it turns white and goes sort of spongy.
Pat dry throughly inside and out with clean tea towels or kitchen paper.
Take a spike or a sharply pointed (thin) skewer and stab the bird all over, but particularly in the meatier areas.
Now its time to make your marinade paste. Mix all the remaining ingredients well.
Ready a container big enough to hold the carcass, then rub the bird inside and out with the paste.
Place the duck in the container breast down and add any remaining paste over the top and distribute as evenly as possible.
Do not close the container, but leave it in the bottom of the fridge or any other suitably cold place for 12 hrs.
12 hrs later, take the box out of the fridge and scrape up any paste in the bottom and rub it back onto and into the duck. Replace the duck in the container, this time breast side up and return to the fridge for a further 12 hrs.
Repeat the overhaul of the duck and turn the bird over once again, so the breast is down. Return to fridge for a further 12 hrs.
Take the duck out of the fridge when ready and rinse inside and out with cold water.
Stuff the duck with clean tea towels, place on another towel or better several in the fridge uncovered for a further 12 hrs.
The smoking and cooking
On the morning of the smoking, truss the legs and wings of the duck with butchers string. Its a good idea to tie the legs together, so that you have a loop from which to suspend the duck in the smoker.
Now prepare the smoker by placing a large drip tray between the position the duck will be hanging in and the heat source and sawdust. This is very important with duck, as it is quite a fatty bird and will shed quite a bit of fat whilst smoking....this you dont want in your smoldering sawdust.
Hang the duck vertically (tail up) in the smoker and set to about 60° and leave the bird to dry for a good hour without adding any sawdust...No smoke should be applied to the duck until the surface is well dried. If you smoke damp or wet meat you run the risk of creosote deposition on the food....really not nice at all!!
Now reduce the temperature of the smoker as low as possible (if you can turn heat off altogether and just smoke with the heat of the sawdust, thats just great) and leave the duck to cold smoke for 3 hrs.
After three hours in the smoker turn up or reapply heat and bring the smoker to 65 - 70°C. Leave the duck to smoke again for three more hours....replenishing sawdust as required.
After the smoking is finished, take the duck out and move to the kitchen.
Heat the oven to 175°C and place the duck on a roasting rack in a deepish tray or pan, covered with an aluminium foil tent. The duck must be kept out of its own dripping fat during the cooking, a good 2cm of clearance is advised.
Roast until internal temperature reaches about 75°C (upto 2 hrs at 175°C)
Now remove the aluminium foil tent and glaze the duck with a mixture of honey and soy sauce in equal measure (2 heavyhanded tablespoons of each should do the job!)
Turn the oven up to 250°C and roast uncovered for a further 15 mins to crisp up the skin and give the dish its final colouring.
Before carving the duck, let it sit to cool uncovered for 15 mins.
Carve and serve with the Hoisin Sauce, Spring Onions and Pancakes.
The pancakes can be bought or they are easy enough to make according to the recipe on Waitrose (of all places). Chinese Pancakes for Peking Duck. Why not give it a go!
Any bits of meat that don't get eaten can be stir fried the next day with noodles and further leftovers (bones etc) can be added to the organs et al for a warming duck soup.
All the best
Guy
Labels:
Poultry
Smoked Duck Breast (Magret Fumé)
Hi again..
Here is the recipe I will be using this weekend as I test out the Cardboard Box Smoker. Its pretty simple and gives very good results.
Ingredients
12 Duck Breasts / Magrets de Canard
5 Kg Sea Salt / Gros Sel
Pepper / Poivre
Method
Place a 2cm layer of the salt into a large glass baking tray (for smaller quantities) or the bottom of a good solid cooler box.
Clean the duck breasts taking care to remove any bloody bits.
Rub each breast throughly on the flesh side and sides with salt, then lay flesh side down in the tray.
Repeat until the tray is full (don't overfill a shallow dish, you need space for more salt).
Once all the breasts are well salted, cover the whole lot with yet more salt.
Pack the salt in well around the breasts, adding more salt if needed so it just covers the surface of the fatty sides of the breasts.
Cover with a tea towel and either leave them 18 to 24 hrs in the bottom of the fridge. If using a cooler box, you can add freezer blocks over the whole caboddle and store them out of harms way. In winter a cold place, say a garage or a barn can substitute for the fridge!
Once the time is up and the breasts are nicely salt cured, take them out of the salt and rinse very throughly before wiping dry.
Grind a little pepper onto the flesh side of the breasts.
Other nice flavour additions can be made before drying. Applying a mixture of honey with a little Cognac, Calvados or Madeira to the breasts before drying is a classy touch. Multi colored pepper corns can also be used to make things look even more attractive. The two magrets to the right were glazed with 50/50 clear honey and Madera.
Now you need to leave the breasts to throughly air dry for 18 - 24 hrs or more.The best way to do this is to hang each magret on a bacon or fish hanger, like those in the photo. These are very handy for all sorts of smoking, where you need to suspend the meat rather than leaveing it on a tray (the bars leave marks and does not smoke so uniformly. If you don't have any, don't worry, bending and putting a point on some heavy gauge wire will do the job adequately. Butchers S's could also be used but only give you one holding point...which may lead to tearing.
Once the breasts are nice and dry they are ready for the smoker.
Cold Smoking the Duck
For this recipe we want to smoke at a low temperature, we don't want the breasts going over 25°C. The lower the better, we want to avoid losing any of the precious fat. Simple enough with electric smoker with a thermostatic control but with a charcoal or wood fire it can be more difficult to keep a constant temperature. Thats why I prefer to use just a small bowl of smoldering charcoal to feed the smoker, then I only have to worry about ambient temperatures.
The magrets will need a good 12 hrs to 18 hrs of smoke, according to how smoky you like them. Low and slow is the best tempo for cold smoking, which is why it is traditionally a winter occupation in temperate climates...try cold smoking at 10°C here in the middle of summer...it ain't going to happen!!!
Once cold smoked you have two options.....
The duck can either be further smoked but this time at a higher temperature...100 - 120°C... to cook them until their internal temp hits 72°C. In this case they can be eaten hot and fresh from the smoker or cooled to room temperature then stored in the fridge for up to a week....or they could be frozen for a good couple of months without much loss of quality..esp when vacuum packed.
Above: Smoked with a honey and madera glaze (left) and plain smoked (right)
To preserve them longer and to further dry them to get to the mouthmeltingly wonderous smoky ducky heaven stage, they should be hung and air dried for a week or more. The length of time depends a lot upon the temp and humidty of the place they are dried in...preferably you want somewhere at about 10-14°C with a high relative humidty that can be reduced slowly as the breasts dry (as with dried sausage and salami making).
For this most cellars are pretty good, if truly underground, even relatively damp ones. Some use garages or even outdoors under the porch for drying but drying will take longer and may be a little uneven.
Once dried they keep for a good while...I cant say how long, they never stick around long enough or they get vacuum packed as presents. Vacuum packing will allow non refrigerated storage for at least six months to a year.
Here is the recipe I will be using this weekend as I test out the Cardboard Box Smoker. Its pretty simple and gives very good results.
Ingredients
12 Duck Breasts / Magrets de Canard
5 Kg Sea Salt / Gros Sel
Pepper / Poivre
Method
Place a 2cm layer of the salt into a large glass baking tray (for smaller quantities) or the bottom of a good solid cooler box.
Clean the duck breasts taking care to remove any bloody bits.
Rub each breast throughly on the flesh side and sides with salt, then lay flesh side down in the tray.
Repeat until the tray is full (don't overfill a shallow dish, you need space for more salt).
Once all the breasts are well salted, cover the whole lot with yet more salt.
Pack the salt in well around the breasts, adding more salt if needed so it just covers the surface of the fatty sides of the breasts.
Cover with a tea towel and either leave them 18 to 24 hrs in the bottom of the fridge. If using a cooler box, you can add freezer blocks over the whole caboddle and store them out of harms way. In winter a cold place, say a garage or a barn can substitute for the fridge!
Once the time is up and the breasts are nicely salt cured, take them out of the salt and rinse very throughly before wiping dry.
Grind a little pepper onto the flesh side of the breasts.
Other nice flavour additions can be made before drying. Applying a mixture of honey with a little Cognac, Calvados or Madeira to the breasts before drying is a classy touch. Multi colored pepper corns can also be used to make things look even more attractive. The two magrets to the right were glazed with 50/50 clear honey and Madera.
Now you need to leave the breasts to throughly air dry for 18 - 24 hrs or more.The best way to do this is to hang each magret on a bacon or fish hanger, like those in the photo. These are very handy for all sorts of smoking, where you need to suspend the meat rather than leaveing it on a tray (the bars leave marks and does not smoke so uniformly. If you don't have any, don't worry, bending and putting a point on some heavy gauge wire will do the job adequately. Butchers S's could also be used but only give you one holding point...which may lead to tearing.
Once the breasts are nice and dry they are ready for the smoker.
Cold Smoking the Duck
For this recipe we want to smoke at a low temperature, we don't want the breasts going over 25°C. The lower the better, we want to avoid losing any of the precious fat. Simple enough with electric smoker with a thermostatic control but with a charcoal or wood fire it can be more difficult to keep a constant temperature. Thats why I prefer to use just a small bowl of smoldering charcoal to feed the smoker, then I only have to worry about ambient temperatures.
The magrets will need a good 12 hrs to 18 hrs of smoke, according to how smoky you like them. Low and slow is the best tempo for cold smoking, which is why it is traditionally a winter occupation in temperate climates...try cold smoking at 10°C here in the middle of summer...it ain't going to happen!!!
Once cold smoked you have two options.....
The duck can either be further smoked but this time at a higher temperature...100 - 120°C... to cook them until their internal temp hits 72°C. In this case they can be eaten hot and fresh from the smoker or cooled to room temperature then stored in the fridge for up to a week....or they could be frozen for a good couple of months without much loss of quality..esp when vacuum packed.
Above: Smoked with a honey and madera glaze (left) and plain smoked (right)
To preserve them longer and to further dry them to get to the mouthmeltingly wonderous smoky ducky heaven stage, they should be hung and air dried for a week or more. The length of time depends a lot upon the temp and humidty of the place they are dried in...preferably you want somewhere at about 10-14°C with a high relative humidty that can be reduced slowly as the breasts dry (as with dried sausage and salami making).
For this most cellars are pretty good, if truly underground, even relatively damp ones. Some use garages or even outdoors under the porch for drying but drying will take longer and may be a little uneven.
Once dried they keep for a good while...I cant say how long, they never stick around long enough or they get vacuum packed as presents. Vacuum packing will allow non refrigerated storage for at least six months to a year.
Labels:
Poultry
Dried Peppered Duck Breasts (Magrets Seché au Poivre)
A french classic for preserving duck breats....and mighty delicious too!
Not the recipe I am doing this weekend...as I want smoked duck breasts this time round. Nonetheless a very nice way to enjoy preserved duck and definately one to try for those who prefer their meats unsmoked, so long as they don't mind a little heat.....the pepper is very pronounced in this traditional version.
Ingredients
12 Duck Breasts / Magrets de Canard
5 Kg Sea Salt / Gros Sel
10 Bay Leaves / Feuilles de Laurier
Herbs / Herbes de Provence
Pepper / Poivre
* Herbes...it really is up to you, I would use what I have here in large quantities from the garden..so in my case Wild Marjoram mixed with Thyme and perhaps a little Origano thrown in for good measure. If you are relying on store bought herbs, its probably best to just use the mix sold as Herbes de Provence...as its available in large quantities in supermarkets at a reasonable price.
Method
Mix the salt with the herbs and bay leaves by hand, until you obtain a uniform distribution of herbs.
Place a 2cm layer of the salt herb mix into a large glass baking tray (for smaller quantities) or the bottom of a good solid cooler box....now we're talking!
Clean the duck breasts taking care to remove any bloody bits.
Rub each breast throughly on the flesh side and sides with the salt mixture, then lay flesh side down on the bed of salt.
Repeat until the tray is full (don't overfill a shallow dish, you need space for more salt).
Once all the breast are well salted, cover with yet more salt.
Pack the salt in well around the breasts, adding more salt if needed so it just covers the surface of the fatty sides of the breasts.
Cover with a teatowel and either leave them 18 to 24 hrs in the bottom of the fridge. If using a cooler box, you can add freezer blocks over the whole caboddle and store them out of harms way. In winter a cold place, say a garage or a barn can substitute for the fridge!
Once the time is up and the breasts are nicely salt cured, take them out of the salt and rinse very throughly.
Pat dry with kitchen towels or a tea towel then set aside to let the surfaces dry a little..2 hrs should be enough.
Now take a tea towel and lay it out on a flat surface.
Grind black pepper coarsely over a good half of the tea towels surface.
Take a duck breast work some pepper into the flesh, rubbing a little to ensure a full and even distribution.
Lay the breast on the pepper covered tea towel and wrap it up so that the peppered part is in contact with the meaty side.
Once all your breasts are wrapped in individual tea towels, move them to the bottom of the fridge or other suitable cool place and leave them there for at least 3 wks.
The breasts will be ready and can be eaten straight away after the three weeks, although they can be hung and further dried if so desired. They will keep a pretty long time, just not very long around here!
It can be a good idea to vacumm pack indiviual breast when you find that they have dried to your taste to avoid over drying.
Enjoy!
Not the recipe I am doing this weekend...as I want smoked duck breasts this time round. Nonetheless a very nice way to enjoy preserved duck and definately one to try for those who prefer their meats unsmoked, so long as they don't mind a little heat.....the pepper is very pronounced in this traditional version.
Ingredients
12 Duck Breasts / Magrets de Canard
5 Kg Sea Salt / Gros Sel
10 Bay Leaves / Feuilles de Laurier
Herbs / Herbes de Provence
Pepper / Poivre
* Herbes...it really is up to you, I would use what I have here in large quantities from the garden..so in my case Wild Marjoram mixed with Thyme and perhaps a little Origano thrown in for good measure. If you are relying on store bought herbs, its probably best to just use the mix sold as Herbes de Provence...as its available in large quantities in supermarkets at a reasonable price.
Method
Mix the salt with the herbs and bay leaves by hand, until you obtain a uniform distribution of herbs.
Place a 2cm layer of the salt herb mix into a large glass baking tray (for smaller quantities) or the bottom of a good solid cooler box....now we're talking!
Clean the duck breasts taking care to remove any bloody bits.
Rub each breast throughly on the flesh side and sides with the salt mixture, then lay flesh side down on the bed of salt.
Repeat until the tray is full (don't overfill a shallow dish, you need space for more salt).
Once all the breast are well salted, cover with yet more salt.
Pack the salt in well around the breasts, adding more salt if needed so it just covers the surface of the fatty sides of the breasts.
Cover with a teatowel and either leave them 18 to 24 hrs in the bottom of the fridge. If using a cooler box, you can add freezer blocks over the whole caboddle and store them out of harms way. In winter a cold place, say a garage or a barn can substitute for the fridge!
Once the time is up and the breasts are nicely salt cured, take them out of the salt and rinse very throughly.
Pat dry with kitchen towels or a tea towel then set aside to let the surfaces dry a little..2 hrs should be enough.
Now take a tea towel and lay it out on a flat surface.
Grind black pepper coarsely over a good half of the tea towels surface.
Take a duck breast work some pepper into the flesh, rubbing a little to ensure a full and even distribution.
Lay the breast on the pepper covered tea towel and wrap it up so that the peppered part is in contact with the meaty side.
Once all your breasts are wrapped in individual tea towels, move them to the bottom of the fridge or other suitable cool place and leave them there for at least 3 wks.
The breasts will be ready and can be eaten straight away after the three weeks, although they can be hung and further dried if so desired. They will keep a pretty long time, just not very long around here!
It can be a good idea to vacumm pack indiviual breast when you find that they have dried to your taste to avoid over drying.
Enjoy!
Labels:
Poultry
Saturday, October 3, 2009
Smoking and Drying Foods for Taste and Storage
A few months ago I was asked by my friends at pigsinfrance.com to write a series of articles on Smoking and Drying Foods for the site. I agreed to start in the autumn but whilst thinking about what to cover, I came up with the idea of doing a blog, to not only accompany the articles but to actually help in the writing of them. I hope that allowing people to follow along and contribute, as I build some simple DIY Smokers, explain a few techniques and dry or smoke a wide range of different foodstuffs both for taste and storage throughout this winter, will enhance the final articles.
The blog part of the series will cover the practical aspects and some of the smoking sessions for the project. Advance warning of forthcoming smoking sessions and projects will be posted a week or so ahead of the planned date, both on this blog and on the pigsinfrance.com forum, so that any one who would like to join in has the chance to make all the preperartions. I would love to hear any feedback, observations or helpful tips, so please comment if you have something to bring to the table!
All the best
Guy
All the best
Guy
Labels:
Admin
DIY Smokers Part 1 - A Cold Smoker in a Cardboard Box
OK...... so now that the nights are drawing in and the temps are starting to drop, it is the time of year to start some smoking. Its a fair while yet though before thoughts of Smoked Polish Sausages, Bacons, Gammons and other porky delights can be entertained.....my pigs are ordered for early December and mid February! I have been drying chiles and tomatos a lot over the summer...I just love sun dried cherry tomatos as a snack or to use in recipes....so I suppose I ought to start with that...but I won't...I will leave that for a few days, what we really need to get off to a flying start is some sought of smoker and a plan for next weekend!!
The most basic smoker you can probably come up with is a good old cardboard box...Ok it won't win any prizes in a craft show but one thing is for sure, it is more than capable of making a lot of cold and even some tasty hot smoked goodies!
The Cardboard Box Smoker
A smoker is after all just a chamber to allow smoke to flow over food. So long as we can provide some ventilation and keep the sawdust smouldering we can smoke food!
This may all sound a little foolhardy, after all smoke is eternally associated with flames and the idea brings to mind horrible scenarios involving barns and I don't want any lynchmobs at my door.... so a quick word of warning! Using such smokers should never be done indoors, infact smoking this way really obliges you to set up the smoker outdoors, well away from anything flammable and never when winds are to be expected! There is always going to be a small element of risk and the use of a smoker requires a regular presence throughout the session to check on and adjust temperatures, change the sawdust when it runs out and generally keep an eye on things.
With cold smoking there is little risk, the whole idea behind the technique being to keep temperatures as low and with as little difference to outside temps as possible. By heating the sawdust until it starts to smoke outside of the box on a small burner or over a fire, we have no need for a heat source in the box itself. The sawdust is introduced already smoldering, will do its job and simply just burn itself out. Cold smoking can be long process (from hours to days) and sawdust will inevitably need changing every hour or so, but don't worry, you do not need to lose any sleep, just let the smoke die down at night and light a new batch in the morning!
What you will need.........
A large cardboard box....the sort of thing a telly comes in would be admirable for the job but smaller boxes can also be used. Here I am using a box a speaker came in...any box that opens at the top is great for a smoker. When hot smoking though, a broader box, a seperated firebox and smoke chamber arrangement or a metal container is a much safer option.
2 dowel rods, canes or preferably steel rods...about 20 cm longer than the width of your box.
Metal grill ..one from a smallish BBQ or perhaps the shelf out of a cooker, would be ideal.
Sawdust container......old cast iron fry pans or small casseroles are great, but just about any fireproof metal recipient can be used.
Cover for the sawdust container......an aluminium pie tin or oven tray of the right size for your container, with plenty of holes pierced in it, to be placed upside down over the sawdust container. Although there is little chance of a great deal of dripping fat at low temperatures, this is essential kit for anything but true cold smoking. The cover makes it very difficult for a flame to get hold and stops any odd drips of fat from the food landing in the sawdust. Better still for hot smoking would be to have a drip tray positioned similarly to the food grill on two rods lower down in the smoker in addition to the cover.
Small sheet of metal or slab of stone.... to place in the bottom of the box ( the sawdust container sits on it).
External heat source.....can be a fire/gas burner/metal hot plate or an electrical element, if you have a proper housing for it, are all ideal for lighting your sawdust. Some people prefer to use a blowtorch to light up, but I find getting the whole container hot gets a better and more reliable smolder going. This does introduce a little heat into the smoker though, but not enough to cause any worries of overheating, so long as the ambient temperature is low and you have good airflow. Even with poor airflow the heat will dissipate into the metal/stone slab and should not cause any risk of setting light to the cardboard.
Sawdust can be had for free or next to nothing at your local sawmill, just go ask them if they have pure oak ....I paid 10€ for a cubic metre of fine oak sawdust last year....it will last me three years...LOL. The sawdust really must be a hard wood and include no resinous softwoods whatsoever, as they would give your foods a nasty resiny (inedible) flavour. Oak and beech are probably the best and easiest to get hold of over here but the fruit woods (apple, cheery, plum etc) make great smoking dusts too, if you can source them or make them yourself.
The huge advantage of sawdust over woodchips, or even shavings is that they are an awful lot more difficult to get it to hold a flame. This is exactly what we want in for safe smoking in a small space. If we were to setup an offset firebox, or have a firepit at the end of a tunnel or pipe leading to a seperate smoking area, then we could happily use chips or solid woods for smoking. For this sort of smoker I would highly recommend only using fine sawdusts.
Building the smoker.....
The box I built today is really for cold smoking only. It was made from one of two speaker boxes that have been knocking around in the cellar for a couple of years now. Whilst being too narrow to really want to risk introduing a heat source, apart from perhaps a very small gas burner or hotplate (not a camping gas type burner though as they are way too unstable) these boxes can make a great multi level cold smoker!
I started off at the top of the box, to make the grill levels for the food to be smoked. This is really simple, just poke a couple of holes through opposite walls on each side of the box. Make them about 20 cm from the top. Then cut two bits of dowel/bamboo to about 20 cm longer than the distance between the two pierced walls. These two rods will support the grill...or if you have a box like mine, then you can always add more levels, if you have enough grills! With this box I made two sets of holes for a double decker cooking area in the top half of the box and then added another set of holes about 3/4s of the way down the box to make a shelf for a drip tray.
In the above picture you can see the double decker effect. I actually cut enough holes to make it a four level affair if needs be. You could easily smoke a good couple of dozen duck breasts at once in there!
Moving down to the bottom of the box, we need to have some sort of easy access to change the sawdust and to keep an eye on things. Again a easy task..just cut a trap door with a knife, so that it opens at the bottom of the box (can be pulled down to floor level). I cut a door in both sides of the box, which can be useful to allow for a better airflow inside the box or so that you can change openings if the wind turns!
Now it just remains to fill the tray with sawdust, get it lit and place it in the smoker. Don't forget that old pie mould or alu oven tray though. You will need to pierce with a generous amount of holes first, to let air through and smoke out. Placed upside down over the sawdust tray (as you can see above) no flames will be able to develop.
Fans are handy to keep things smoldering nicely... There are a few cheapo options available here too...you could use a desk type fan outside the box, with the door open, to waft the smoke around inside the box and improve air flow. Or try placing a small hand held fan or minature desk fan inside the box..just cut another hole for the cable or simply pass it through a trap door. The enterprising may get great results by cutting an extra hole in the base of the box and installing an old 12v computer fan (the ones on powersupplies) to generate flow or to turn a hot smoker into a convection smoker! Put it on a transformer and you can adjust the air flow at will too.
So thats the smoker ready for some food and a good ol smoke out!! That will not be until next weekend however, when I will put it through its paces with some cold smoked duck breasts. Watch out for the recipe tomorrow....................................
All the best
Guy
The most basic smoker you can probably come up with is a good old cardboard box...Ok it won't win any prizes in a craft show but one thing is for sure, it is more than capable of making a lot of cold and even some tasty hot smoked goodies!
The Cardboard Box Smoker
A smoker is after all just a chamber to allow smoke to flow over food. So long as we can provide some ventilation and keep the sawdust smouldering we can smoke food!
This may all sound a little foolhardy, after all smoke is eternally associated with flames and the idea brings to mind horrible scenarios involving barns and I don't want any lynchmobs at my door.... so a quick word of warning! Using such smokers should never be done indoors, infact smoking this way really obliges you to set up the smoker outdoors, well away from anything flammable and never when winds are to be expected! There is always going to be a small element of risk and the use of a smoker requires a regular presence throughout the session to check on and adjust temperatures, change the sawdust when it runs out and generally keep an eye on things.
With cold smoking there is little risk, the whole idea behind the technique being to keep temperatures as low and with as little difference to outside temps as possible. By heating the sawdust until it starts to smoke outside of the box on a small burner or over a fire, we have no need for a heat source in the box itself. The sawdust is introduced already smoldering, will do its job and simply just burn itself out. Cold smoking can be long process (from hours to days) and sawdust will inevitably need changing every hour or so, but don't worry, you do not need to lose any sleep, just let the smoke die down at night and light a new batch in the morning!
What you will need.........
A large cardboard box....the sort of thing a telly comes in would be admirable for the job but smaller boxes can also be used. Here I am using a box a speaker came in...any box that opens at the top is great for a smoker. When hot smoking though, a broader box, a seperated firebox and smoke chamber arrangement or a metal container is a much safer option.
2 dowel rods, canes or preferably steel rods...about 20 cm longer than the width of your box.
Metal grill ..one from a smallish BBQ or perhaps the shelf out of a cooker, would be ideal.
Cover for the sawdust container......an aluminium pie tin or oven tray of the right size for your container, with plenty of holes pierced in it, to be placed upside down over the sawdust container. Although there is little chance of a great deal of dripping fat at low temperatures, this is essential kit for anything but true cold smoking. The cover makes it very difficult for a flame to get hold and stops any odd drips of fat from the food landing in the sawdust. Better still for hot smoking would be to have a drip tray positioned similarly to the food grill on two rods lower down in the smoker in addition to the cover.
Small sheet of metal or slab of stone.... to place in the bottom of the box ( the sawdust container sits on it).
External heat source.....can be a fire/gas burner/metal hot plate or an electrical element, if you have a proper housing for it, are all ideal for lighting your sawdust. Some people prefer to use a blowtorch to light up, but I find getting the whole container hot gets a better and more reliable smolder going. This does introduce a little heat into the smoker though, but not enough to cause any worries of overheating, so long as the ambient temperature is low and you have good airflow. Even with poor airflow the heat will dissipate into the metal/stone slab and should not cause any risk of setting light to the cardboard.
Sawdust can be had for free or next to nothing at your local sawmill, just go ask them if they have pure oak ....I paid 10€ for a cubic metre of fine oak sawdust last year....it will last me three years...LOL. The sawdust really must be a hard wood and include no resinous softwoods whatsoever, as they would give your foods a nasty resiny (inedible) flavour. Oak and beech are probably the best and easiest to get hold of over here but the fruit woods (apple, cheery, plum etc) make great smoking dusts too, if you can source them or make them yourself.
The huge advantage of sawdust over woodchips, or even shavings is that they are an awful lot more difficult to get it to hold a flame. This is exactly what we want in for safe smoking in a small space. If we were to setup an offset firebox, or have a firepit at the end of a tunnel or pipe leading to a seperate smoking area, then we could happily use chips or solid woods for smoking. For this sort of smoker I would highly recommend only using fine sawdusts.
Building the smoker.....
The box I built today is really for cold smoking only. It was made from one of two speaker boxes that have been knocking around in the cellar for a couple of years now. Whilst being too narrow to really want to risk introduing a heat source, apart from perhaps a very small gas burner or hotplate (not a camping gas type burner though as they are way too unstable) these boxes can make a great multi level cold smoker!
I started off at the top of the box, to make the grill levels for the food to be smoked. This is really simple, just poke a couple of holes through opposite walls on each side of the box. Make them about 20 cm from the top. Then cut two bits of dowel/bamboo to about 20 cm longer than the distance between the two pierced walls. These two rods will support the grill...or if you have a box like mine, then you can always add more levels, if you have enough grills! With this box I made two sets of holes for a double decker cooking area in the top half of the box and then added another set of holes about 3/4s of the way down the box to make a shelf for a drip tray.
In the above picture you can see the double decker effect. I actually cut enough holes to make it a four level affair if needs be. You could easily smoke a good couple of dozen duck breasts at once in there!
Moving down to the bottom of the box, we need to have some sort of easy access to change the sawdust and to keep an eye on things. Again a easy task..just cut a trap door with a knife, so that it opens at the bottom of the box (can be pulled down to floor level). I cut a door in both sides of the box, which can be useful to allow for a better airflow inside the box or so that you can change openings if the wind turns!
Once the trap doors are cut, we can start kitting out the base of the box. Its a pretty good idea to insulate the base a little, even if we are only cold smoking the sawdust container can get pretty hot. I had a few small tiles handy, so I lined the base of the box with them. You could equally use a bit of paving slab, a metal plate or the like. Something heavy in the bottom of the smoker is never a bad thing in any case, as it helps to keep it stable and may keep the smoker upright if an unsuspected gust of wind arrives on the scene.
Other nice bits to have
Fans are handy to keep things smoldering nicely... There are a few cheapo options available here too...you could use a desk type fan outside the box, with the door open, to waft the smoke around inside the box and improve air flow. Or try placing a small hand held fan or minature desk fan inside the box..just cut another hole for the cable or simply pass it through a trap door. The enterprising may get great results by cutting an extra hole in the base of the box and installing an old 12v computer fan (the ones on powersupplies) to generate flow or to turn a hot smoker into a convection smoker! Put it on a transformer and you can adjust the air flow at will too.
Thermometers... Very much an essential tool for controlling temperature of hot smoked foods. The best setup would be to have two, one in the food and one inside the box...I use just one most of the time, both to monitor the heat in the box during the smoking (pierce the side wall with its pointy end and hang off one of the dowels) and to check on doneness. For cold smoking it is nice to have one about to check that the box isn't getting too hot, but is by no means essential.
So thats the smoker ready for some food and a good ol smoke out!! That will not be until next weekend however, when I will put it through its paces with some cold smoked duck breasts. Watch out for the recipe tomorrow....................................
All the best
Guy
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